Planet Granite

Just spent the evening at Planet Granite in San Francisco. Really good climbing center with tall walls and lots of bouldering. They had an outdoor bouldering section which was really nice as the weather is spot on out here at the moment. Met some new friends and someone tried to teach me to tightrope walk, they didn't get very far. Bouldering walls were about 5m high over here and you really don't want to take a fall from the top.

Anyone fancy a trip to Font?

My wish list for Portland

This is my own selection from Rockfax best routes in Portland. They are all 2-3 stars from 5 to 6a+. I ve never sport climb outside before so it should be interesting. The best routes seem to be in Blacknor area.

Fallen Slab Blacknor South 3
Fallen Slab Arete Blacknor South 3
Six Good Biceps Blacknor South 4
Chalkie and the Hex 5 Cutting edge 5+

Slings Shot	Blacknor North	5
Meg's Got Leukaemia	Blacknor North	6a
Shit Happens, Actually	Blacknor Central	6a
Monsoon Malabar	Blacknor Central	6a
Go With the Flow	Blacknor Central	6a
The Lizard of Oz	Blacknor South	6a
Fear's Younger Brother	Blacknor Far South	6a
Never Drive a Car When You're Dead	Battleship Edge	6a
Reptile Smile	Blacknor North	6a+
Pregnant Pause	Blacknor Central	6a+
Ocean Drive	Blacknor Far South	6a+
Stalker's Zone	Wallsend South	6a+
Brief Encounter	The Cuttings	6a+
Consommé	The Cuttings	6a+

Fred

last holiday of the year!!!

I have just checked my holiday allowance and I have four days left after my Cornwall trip....therefore I was wondering if anyone was interested in going away somewhere? Climbing/walking/chilling, I dont really mind, if linking it onto a weekend could be a jolly decent holiday!
Just let me know if your interested
Kate

Dolomites Summer 09

The Italian Dolomites 19th June-27th June 2009 (Kate’s half of the story!)

Caroline Denny, Katherine (Caroline’s sister), Pete Hadfield, Andy Main, Kate Oldershaw and Fred Richard.

Over a pint the three of us (Pete, Fred and I) decided that driving to Cortina (1048 miles) was a brilliant idea-a proper expedition and indeed the only way to travel there-pfffff to flying!

The first leg of the drivathon/expedition began at Gloucester and ended in Dover, with a wee bit of speeding between. Once in Dover the boys rumbling bellies got the better of them and we ended up on a diversion to a fish and chip shop. With their appetites satisfied we headed to the port, and met a stern looking man at customs who informed us that we had missed the ferry and would have to wait until midnight for the next.
Lesson one of the expedition: Fish and chips are bad for you!

The 2nd/ final mammoth section of the drive began in the early hours at Dunkirk. During the first hour of the journey we managed an impressive 5 miles touring around Dunkirks finest industrial estates while trying to locate Fred’s preferred bank. When we finally started to clock up some miles we put the wheels in five different countries, namely France, Belgium, Holland, Germany, Austria, arriving in Cortina (Italy) 27 hours after departing Gloucester! The three sensible (flying) members of the trip (Andy, Katherine and Caroline) arrived at Campsite Rochetta an hour later than us, completing their entire journey in under five hours!

Via ferrata was high on our agenda for the trip, and we started with the easiest of grades (1A) to test the water. The Sentierio Astaldi route started at refuge Dibona and hugged the limestone strada leading us to the refuge Pomedes. Although a very easy route it gave us breath taking views (the limestone strada was interleaved with layers of green and red clay like material) and left us all chomping on the bit for more. The boys started plotting while at the refuge and decided that they should go straight on to a 5C (the highest grade) and conquer Punta Anna and the summit of tofana di mezzo (3244m). They encountered some interesting snow fields-Fred struggling slightly in his trainers- and steep scree slopes, but arrived back at the base camp elated.

One of the most hair raising days for me, Andy, Katherine and Caroline started at Hotel Fiames, where we tackled Punta Fiames (2240m) with relative ease (3B) and after having a group photo on the summit looked down at the daunting 300m scree slope. Apparently running is the easiest method of descending down these intimidating slopes, Andy headed on first, plummeting down at speed, quite definitely winning the scree running award for style! At the bottom we decided that the day wasn’t quite complete, we wanted more via ferrata! The route Terza Cengia-Forcella Zumeles was only a 2C, but the “C” definitely made a difference and Andy made a new grading system (A not exposed, B exposed, C all the wire will be rotted away) which generally summed up the route! The ridges were narrow, drops significant (1000m) and protection minimal. Around every bend we gasped, wi th my famous quote “you’re having a laugh if you think I am going up that!!” In the guide it describes my “that” as a “chossy 45 degree ramp with unpleasant and laborious climbing” However we made it to the summit of Punta Erbing (2301m), had our victory photos taken and started on our descent. Unfortunately hitching didn’t work (Katherine and Caroline are pros at hitching and vowed it was the way to travel around Europe, Andy and I were and still remain sceptical) and so we ended up walking to Cortina stopping off at one of the bars for a wee pint-which was definitely well deserved-a splendid day.
Lesson number two of the expedition: Hitching doesn’t work!

The best via ferrata of the trip was had at Col Rosa (3B) (2166m), it gave us exposure (described in the guide book as “airyness”), steepness, stemples, traverses, gullies and superb views of Cortina and the surrounding peaks. All of us completed the route, albeit at varying speeds- Fred and Pete were on a mission, wanting to climb after the via ferrata! When we had signed in the book at the summit some Italians ushered us towards a hole in the ground. On closer inspection the hole revealed a large network of wartime tunnels and chambers (many of the via ferratas were originally built in order to help movements of the alpine military during the First World War).

Due to the unseasonably cold weather which was persisting over the Italian dolomites a lot of the via ferrata routes were closed, including one of the routes we had all starred-The Sorapiss Circuit. It is described in the guide as a “classic mountain round” and would have taken two days, with a mountain bivouac. On the final day of the holiday Katherine, Caroline, Andy and I decided we would investigate part of the circuit and headed up towards the refuge Vandelli. The path wasn’t worn, and we ended up making our own way over snow fields and climbing over fallen trees. Clouds started rolling in but luckily as the heavens opened we caught sight of the refuge, and to our su rprise it was open! We hukkered down, eating soup and bread and started to plan future trips. The clouds then lifted and we headed to a stunning blue/green coloured lake (Lake Sorapis), unfortunately it was freezing cold, so none of us scored any lake bagging points. We got views of part of the via ferrata, and it looked stunning-very dramatic. Snow blocked our way further up on the 223 route, and we ended up having to retrace our steps back down to the refuge, however we did get a taste of the route-I will definitely complete it on my next visit to the Dolomites!

Cinque Torri (five towers) was a climbing mecca-a playground for anyone slightly rock inclined! The Torre Grande (2262M) was very intimidating, with the slightly smaller Torre Lusy still dominating the landscape. Unfortunately the weather was rather unsettled on our visits to Cinque torri but luckily there was a splendid refuge which did the most scrumptious minestrone soup-served with parmesan! Fred and I managed to do a climb called Lucy, a five pitch route. Our first attempt of this route was unsuccessful due to the persistent rain, but did enable Fred to practise his prussiking technique as our rope got stuck around our abseil point. Pete had to do exactly the same on his route which he completed with a drowned rat Andy.
Lesson number three of the expedition: Always check that the rope will run through the ready made abseil point!

A trip report for the Italian dolomites cannot be complete without a mention of the superb cuisine! Fred put an average of 10 cloves of garlic into most of our “campsite” culinary delights and managed to pack away two main courses, a pudding and a macchiato when we dined in Cortina. Pete discovered number nine spaghetti-thick spaghetti which is hollow- I found very difficult to slurp up, very entertaining! Katherine and Caroline were very impressive, cooking themselves a three course meal on a Trangia. I have been unable to face pizza since our return (five pizzas in eight days is just tooooo much!)

Thank you to everyone on this trip, it was blooming brilliant!

Portland-Sun 30th-Mon 31st Aug

Bonjourno! Fred et moi are plannning to go to Portland on Sun for some sport climbing action. We will be driving down on sunday morning (rather hung over after nel's birthday party!) and then camping on sunday night.
More the merrier, just give me a text if your interested...come on Pete you know you want to join us rather than canoeing!!!

Avon Gorge - Sat 22/08/09

Was my first time at Sea Wall and Andy first trip to Avon. We only Climbed Gronk. Great 5 pitches route(4c,4b,4b,4c,4a). I found the first pitch the hardest (couple of hard move with not much gear). Pitch 2 was short but sweet. Pitch 3 was relatively easy technically but very expose with very little gear on the short traverse to join the Morpheous block. Very long and airy traverse on pitch 4 but plenty of gear(good cams). Pitch 5was very straightforward. Once at the top we realised we did not have any money for the ice-cream van, gutted! Will have to do it again.

Fred

Various Pics

Devil's slide - Lundy 2008

Crib Goch on a sunny day. Can't beat it!

Fred R - Cadair Idris



Bill T and Dave M - Bosigran

Stroud half marathon!

Mmmm so maybe not very climbing orientated, but I do beleive it could be a very social/entertaining event-Fred is even going to dress up as a pumpkin!
The date: Sun 25th Oct, you have to register by the 11th oct-search google "sroud half marathon."
Training: There is a brill training schedule on the Bristol half marathon website-search Bris half marathon, then go to the training guide section!
More actual social events to follow!

Kate

Beer! when?

Skye - June 2008 (GMC meet)

What a week it was! Rock Climbing on the “Cioch“ and the sea cliffs of Elgol was really good and the weather ideal. The highlight of the week for me was doing the Cuillin Ridge with Alistair, Terry and Nell. We left the campsite at 4am, straight up to Coir a Ghrundha and Sgurr nan Eag, left the bags there with Nell and moved quickly to Gars-Bhein (the southern summit-7am) Went back on ourselves to retrieve the bags (and Nell).We carried on walking/scrambling the ridge, took the rope out twice to go through the TD GAP and King Chimney. Nell left us just before the Inn Pin in the early afternoon and headed back towards the campsite for a more relaxing rest of the day. Alistair, Terry and I followed the ridge all the way to Sgurr nan Gillean in glorious sunshine. Going up and down Gillean at the end was very exposed and quite scary for a scramble, probably because we were all very tired after walking for 16 hours! After that came at least 2 hours of agony before we made it to the pub before last order…

Fred

I came to Skye with a friend from university days (Mike McFarlane) on Thursday, only briefly meeting up with Fred and Dave Pillow on their way home on Sunday.

Fortunately, we were able to use some spare bunks at the Glen Brittle Memorial Hut where the LincolnMC and FRCC were having a meet that same week. The midges turned out to be rather bad this time already and thus, despite a lack of ventilation, the hut was a welcome safe haven. Many thanks to Pat and Andrew Reynolds for offering this option whilst they were "wardening" at the hut.

In brief: Skye was fantastic: wall-to-wall sunshine and way to warm and dry throughout. On our first morning, Friday, the word was for five days of good weather. Never believing a British weather forecast we decided to go for the ridge as soon as possible, i.e. that same morning. We left the hut at around 10 a.m. heading for Garbh Beinn at the Southern end of the Cuillin Ridge. We decided to take our time and bivvy near An Stac one night. There was a temperature inversion the next morning, so that alone made it worthwhile - and we had the Inn Pinn to ourselves when we set off agian on the second day.
However, lugging all that kit around the ridge was not really that good an idea. With Mike finding his mind well fried by all that "exposed climbing" we were somewhat late reaching the last bealach. Preferring not to climb that last "pinnacly" ridge I joined up with John and Jeff from Cheshire and made it to the top of Sgurr nan Gillean by 10.30 p.m., just in time for the sunset. Walking back through a cloudless and almost balmy night we got back to the Glen Brittle Hut by 4 a.m. We could have stopped and bivvied again en route but decided to go for proper bunks and a lie-in instead. Such hopes were sadly dashed as no-one left the hut key out for us and we didn't feel like waking the whole house. So another bivvy "night" it was with midge hell all around. Anyway, it was a great adventure and I will try again doing it in a single day some other time. By the way, we avoided dehydration by getting water from Lochan Lagan just below our campsite. A long slog up the scree on the way back but certainly worthwhile. Sunday we recovered from the previous days' efforts. Monday we fashioned a midge cover for one of our bedroom windows from a midge head net, thus allowing some fresh air "sans" midges. (Surprisingly, the hut does not have midge nets installed on any of its windows, but then such wind-free times are probably rare.) Later on I joined Mike on an exploratory wander around the Point of Sleat on search of photogenic views (see his work at www.mikemcfarlane.co.uk).Tuesday started a little wet and generally looked "not very good". So I set off on my own to have a look at the headland to the South of the Cuillin Ridge. This turned out to be a rather wild bit of land where more beasts than people have wandered in recent times. A great low-level walk for rainy days. As it turned out, this day did turn to better weather later in the morning, so not taking a camera was a bad move. Anyway, what an excuse to haste back...

Jojo Neff

New Group Blog about climbing

Hi all

I have just started this GROUP BLOG. At the moment the aim is to use it as an interactive site for climber/mountain enthusiasts about climbing, mountaineering, gear, trips, meet report, social events etc....It might also be a good way to find someone to climb with locally. If you want to become an author or got some suggestions and feedback please feel free to write a comment. Some climbing shots would be great too. The more authors we got the more interesting this block will become. This site is completely free and open to anybody to read (no password needed) I can set up to 100 authors and add more administrators if needed.

Cheers!
Fred